Chapter XVIII
Arnheim to Bergen-op-Zoom
Arnheim the Joyous--A wood walk--Tesselschade Visscher
and the Chambers of Rhetoric--Epigrams--Poet friends--The
nightingale--An Arnheim adventure--Ten years at one book--Dutch
and Latin--Dutch and French--A French story--Dutch
and English--_The English Schole-Master_--Master
and scholar--A nervous catechism--Avoiding the
birch--A riot of courtesy--A bill of lading--Dutch
proverbs--The Rhine and its mouths--Nymwegen--Lady
Mary Wortley Montagu again--Painted shutters--The
Valkhof--Hertogenbosch--Brothers at Bommel--The hero of
Breda--Two beautiful tombs--Bergen-op-Zoom--Messrs. Grimston
and Red-head--Tholen--The Dutch feminine countenance.
At Arnheim we come to a totally new Holland. The Maliebaan and the
park at Utrecht, with their spacious residences, had prepared us a
little for Arnheim's wooded retirement; but not completely. Rotterdam
is given to shipping; The Hague makes laws and fashions; Leyden
and Utrecht teach; Amsterdam makes money. It is at Arnheim that the
retired merchant and the returned colonist set up their home. It is
the richest residential city in the country. Arnheim the Joyous was
its old name. Arnheim the Comfortable it might now be styled.
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