Now here was a tragedy worthy of serious
treatment. A Frenchman would have danced with rage; an Englishman
would have wanted to know whose fault it was and have threatened
reprisals. But the Dutchman merely looked a little pained, a little
surprised, and in a minute or two was preparing a friendly group of
the officials of the tram which had caused the accident. I do not put
the incident forward as typical; but certainly one may travel far in
Holland without seeing exhibitions of temper. I mentioned the nation's
equability to the young Dutchman in the canal boat between Rotterdam
and Delft. "Ah!" he said, "you should go to Brabant. They fight enough
there!" I did go to Brabant, but I saw no anger or quarrelsomeness;
yet I suppose he had his reasons.
The steam-tram to Monnickendam runs on to Edam, whence one may command
both Volegdam and Purmerend. Edam is famous for its cheese, but the
traveller in Holland as a rule reserves for Alkmaar cheese market his
interest in this industry; and we will do the same. Broadly speaking
Edam sends forth the red cheeses, Alkmaar the yellow; but no hard
and fast line can be drawn. Were it not for its cheese market Edam
would be as "dead" as Monnickendam, but cheese saves it. It was once
a power and the water-gate of Amsterdam, at a time when the only way
to the Dutch capital was by the Zuyder Zee and the Y.
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