" Free recitals are given on Tuesdays and Thursdays from
one to two. On other days the organist can be persuaded to play for
a fee. Charles Lamb's friend Fell paid a ducat to the organist and
half a crown to the blower, and heard as much as he wanted. He found
the vox humana "the voice of a psalm-singing clerk". Other travellers
have been more fortunate. Ireland tells us that when Handel played
this organ the organist took him either for an angel or a devil.
Among Haarlem's architectural attractions is the very interesting Meat
Market, hard by the great church, one of the most agreeable pieces
of floridity between the Middelburg stadhuis and the Leeuwarden
chancellerie. There is also the fine Amsterdam Gate, on the road
to Amsterdam.
In the Teyler Museum, on the Spaarne, is a poor collection of
modern oil paintings, some good modern water colours and a very fine
collection of drawings by the masters, including several Rembrandts. In
this room one may well plan to spend much time. One of the best Israels
that I saw in Holland is a little water-colour interior that is hung
here. I asked one of the attendants if they had anything by Matthew
Maris, but he denied his existence. James he knew, and William; but
there was no Matthew.
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