I learned how to wear one glove instead of two,
or to go without.
"We had the ordeal of the custom-house to pass again; but once passed,
and told that we were free to go on, it was like going into a clear
atmosphere from a fog. We crossed the custom-house threshold into
another room, and we found ourselves in Russia, and in an excellent,
well-furnished, and cheery restaurant. We lost the German smoke and the
German beer; we found hot coffee and clean table-cloths.
"We did not return to our dusty, red-velvet palace, but we entered a
clean, comfortable compartment, with easy sofas, for the night. We
started again for St. Petersburg; we were now four days from London. I
will omit the details of a break-down that night, and another change of
cars. We had some sleep, and awoke in the morning to enjoy Russia.
"And, first, of Russian railroads. When the railroads of Russia were
planned, the Emperor Nicholas allowed a large sum of money for the
building. The engineer showed him his plan. The road wound by slight
curves from one town to another. This did not suit the emperor at all.
He took his ruler, put it down upon the table, and said: 'I choose to
have my roads run so.' Of course the engineer assented--he had his large
fund granted; a straight road was much cheaper to build than a curved
one. As a consequence, he built and furnished an excellent road.
"At every 'verst,' which is not quite a mile, a small house is placed at
the roadside, on which, in very large figures, the number of versts from
St.
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