I
went alone yesterday to St. Peter's and the Vatican, and today, taking
Murray, I went alone to the Roman Forum, and stood beside the ruined
porticos and the broken columns of the Temple. Then I pushed on to the
Coliseum, and walked around its whole circumference. I could scarcely
believe that I really stood among the ruins, and was not dreaming! I
really think I had more enjoyment for going alone and finding out for
myself. Afterwards the Hawthornes called, and I took Mrs. H. to the same
spot....
"I really feel the impressiveness of Rome. All Europe has been serious
to me; Rome is even sad in its seriousness. You cannot help feeling, in
the Coliseum, some little of the influence of the scenes that have been
enacted there, even if you know little about them; you must remember
that the vast numbers of people who have been within its walls for ages
have not been common minds, whether they were Christian martyrs or
travelling artists....
"I think if I had never heard before of the reputation of the pictures
and statues of the Vatican, I should have perceived their superiority.
There is more idea of _action_ conveyed by the statuary than I ever
received before--they do not seem to be _dead_.
"January 25. I have finer rooms than I had in Paris, but the letting of
apartments is better managed in Paris. There you always find a
_concierge_, who tells you all you want to know, and who speaks several
languages.
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