He told us to go to the opposite side of the gallery, and he
would whisper to us. We went around, and, worn out with fatigue, dropped
upon a bench.
"The man began to whisper, putting his mouth to an opening in the wall;
we heard noises, but could not tell what he said.
"To my amazement, this very respectable-looking elderly gentleman, as we
passed him in going out, whispered again, and as this time he put his
mouth close to my ear, I understood! He said, 'If you will give anything
for the whisper, it will be gratefully received.' There are notices all
over the church forbidding fees, and I felt that the man was a beggar at
best--more properly a pickpocket.
"A figure of Dr. Johnson stands in one of the aisles of the church. It
must be like him, for it is exceedingly ugly.
"September 3. We have been three weeks in London 'out of season,' but
with plenty of letters. At present we have as many acquaintances as we
desire. Last night we were at the opera, to-night we go out to dine, and
to-morrow evening to a dance, the next day to Admiral Smyth's.
"The opera fatigued me, as it always does. I tired my eyes and ears in
the vain effort to appreciate it. Mario was the great star of the
evening, but I knew no difference.
"One little circumstance showed me how an American, with the best
intentions, may offend against good manners. American-like we had
secured very good seats, were in good season, and as comfortable as the
very narrow seats would permit us to be, before most of the audience
arrived.
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